Get Hot with Cool Ice Climbing in Korea

10 Magazine, February 2009, pp.22~25
Written by, Eddy Park

Seeing a waterfall flow over a cliff, come thundering down and splash into a misty pool is cause for romantic images and stories of fantasy. Seeing that same waterfall frozen, standing proud and tall, and dazzling on a crisp winter morning is cause for anyone to try ice climbing.

Ice climbing was once reserved for the mentally lopsided mountaineer. The activity was solely a means to a climatic summit. If you want to climb mountains, being able to kick and hammer into glaciers is a prerequisite. But now, modern ice climbing has become a sport in its own right. The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) hosts a World Cup event every year, and every winter from late December to February, Korean enthusiasts patiently wait for their favorite trickle of water to form into a massive chunk of ice. At Garebi, Gyeonggi-do or Yeong-dong, Chungcheongbuk-do, communities in Korea have rigged pipes to create artificial waterfalls resulting in large and free ice climbing areas. Ice climbing can also be done in the city at Seoul's O2 World.

Swinging sharp ice axes and stomping gnarly crampons into ice may still be reserved for a special type of person, but opportunities have never been more accessible. It has been reported that there are about 8,000 ice climbers in Korea; when walking up to popular venue on a weekend, one might think that number was a bit on the conservative side. The fact of the matter is when one looks up at these magnificent natural structures with their intricate lattice structures, there is primal compulsion to feel the ice and then to want to get to the top.

Many start with friends, climbing clubs or take courses through professional guiding services. Whichever way you start, there are few important safety matters to keep in mind. First and foremost, ice climbing is potentially dangerous. Sharp metal tools on all four limbs mixed with cold weather and variable ice conditions require an attentive attitude. The thrill of your first ice climb can be a stressful experience so make sure you can communicate with your instructors properly. Instructors should be well-experienced. This does not necessarily mean they are world class climbers; this means they can coach you patiently and they understand the difficulties a novice climber faces. With the proper person showing you the ropes, your first ice climbing experience will reveal the amazing things you are capable of, and perhaps, the beginning of an addiction to cold, Gore-Tex garments, ice tools and a plethora of other exciting toys.

Ice climbing is gear intensive. So before you invest a chunk of your paycheck at your local gear shop, borrow or rent gear a multiple of times. Choosing the right ice tools is often a matter of personal preference, and manufactures offer multiple designs to fit your needs. Rentals are hard to find, but most guiding companies and clubs will rent gear free of charge to clients. The necessary hardware consists of ice axes (with leashes for novices), rigid ice climbing crampons (these are different from hinged crampons), ice climbing boots (leather boots are more versatile but not as warm as plastic boots), helmet (there is always the possibility of a face full of falling ice), and fully-adjustable harness. With this set of gear, you can go out and with an experienced group and enjoy the ice.

Clothing is a different matter. While most companies or clubs will try to provide clothing, it is often difficult to find the right size especially for taller foreigners in Korea. Clothing is the first line of defense from the wet and cold. When the body gets cold, climbing is harder, and it causes a natural instinct for panic. What you wear often determines whether your experience is a shivering cursing epic or a pleasantly awesome day cruising up ice.

Here are a few tips on clothing to ensure the latter radical experience. Clothing should be worn in layers to adjust for hot climbing and cold waiting. Start with polyester long underwear, the type that wicks away sweat. The body has to be kept as dry as possible. Stay away from cotton and tight shiny spandex material which draws heat away from the body. Rather, find a snug spandex-polyester blend with a fuzzy texture that covers your neck. Ice has a nasty habit of falling into the tiniest openings in your clothing.

Next, wear a fleece sweater that covers your neck. The thickness of the fleece depends on how susceptible you are to cold. Most climbers do not wear fleece pants unless they are in high altitude conditions. Fleece pants often impair movement, and your legs quickly warm up from climbing. It is important not to be too warm while climbing. Overheating sweat-soaks your clothing and causes you to unnecessarily lose valuable water from the circulatory system. If you want warmer legs, wear thicker bottoms for your long underwear.

The outer layer comes next. Use water resistant shells. They do not need to be insulated or made of pricy Gore-Tex. Make sure your pants are snug. Crampons will snag and rip baggy pants. Wearing gaiters helps with this problem. Try on all the layers and move around. You want freedom of movement with no restrictions. Any constrictions will decrease circulation and climbing performance.

The final layer is your insulation layer. This layer is used to keep you warm at the bottom of a climb. A thick hooded-down parka is commonly used, but some even use their sleeping bags as a blanket.

Have a fleece sweat-wicking hat under your helmet. For your feet wear a thin sweat-wicking polyester sock covered by a thicker wool sock. Try your boots on with the layers and check for pressure points. Pressure points augment into numbing cold spots. Adjust your layers or boot size accordingly.

Your hands will take the most abuse. Ice climbing provides a unique experience for the hands called the 'screaming barfies'. This phenomenon occurs when your arms are raised and the muscles are exerted for an extended period of time in cold weather. When you finish climbing and drop your cold tired arms, the warm blood rushes back into hands causing a sensation akin to hyenas gnawing on your fingers making you want to scream and barf at the same time. The upside is that this usually only happens after your first climb of the day. Warm hands, good circulation and plenty of fluids minimize the effects. Bring multiple gloves and keep them warm by storing them in your jacket. Make sure your gloves are insulated and have a water resistant shell. Gloves with a thick back-side are preferable as novices often smack their knuckles on the ice.

When properly prepared and with the proper instructors, ice climbing is a great way to enjoy the winter in Korea. Slurping your last hot ramen noodle, snug in your down jacket, sitting in the middle of a serene snow covered pine forest, and seeing your friend scale a striking pillar of ice; it’s a Korean experience you will remember.

For more information on climbing in Korea visit the Corean Alpine Club's website at http://www.cac.or.kr/cac_eng/.

And, for ice climbing courses and guiding services by native English speakers, contact International Guides of Korea (IGK) at www.iguidekorea.com.

*This article may also be purchased at most local GS25 Convenient Stores throughout Korea druing the month of February 2009..